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Beaches, Chake, Changuu, Chapwani, Chumbe, Diving, Fumba, History, Jambiani, Jozani-Chwaka Bay, Kendwa, Kiwengwa, Kiwengwa-Pongwe, Kizimkazi, Mahurubi, Mangapwani, Matemwe, Menai Bay, Misali, Mnemba, Mtoni, Ngezi-Vumawimbi, Nungwi, Pemba, Pujini, Ras Kigomasha, Snorkeling, Stone Town, Unguja, Zanzibar Archipelago, Zanzibar City

History

Early Stone Age tools discovered on the Zanzibar archipelago indicate that humans have inhabited Zanzibar for at least 20 000 years. Coastal Tanzania and Zanzibar have been home to Bantu speaking tribes since the beginning of the first millennium. 

It is known from archeological finds and early Greco-Roman texts that ships from Arabia, Persia (Iran), and India have traded at Zanzibar for around 2 000 years. Archeological discoveries at Fukuchani, on Unguja's northwest coast, include shards of imported pottery from Arabian cultures dating back to the 5th century. Fukuchani was the site of an early agricultural and fishing community.

Trading with ships from the East became increasingly important to African cultures beginning in the mid-8th century and by the 10th century, Zanzibar had become home to groups of immigrants from Persia and Arabia, who commingled with the local Swahili on the islands. Traders from the east increasingly used Unguja as a base for maritime journeys, settling in present-day Stone Town.

The Zanzibar Archipelago have long produced cloves, nutmeg, cinnamon, vanilla, and black pepper and together with Mafia Island, further south along Tanzania's coast, became known as the "Spice Islands".

The first Europeans to visit Zanzibar were members of the famous Portuguese expedition to Africa and India, which was led by Vasco da Gama and stopped over in the islands in 1498. In 1503, Portugal took control of Zanzibar and it remained so for the next two centuries. Relations between the Portuguese and the local Arab and Swahili elites were often hostile and Portuguese influence in the islands was relatively limited, leaving administration mostly in the hands of local leaders.

In 1698, the Sultanate of Oman gained control of Zanzibar. During the first half of the nineteenth century, various Omani merchant princes settled on Zanzibar as elite rulers and landowners, and in 1840, Said bin Sultan, the Sultan of Muscat and Oman, moved his capital from Muscat, Oman to Stone Town on Unguja Island. Unguja became an Arab state and the focus of a burgeoning slave, ivory, and spice trade.

The Sultan died in 1856 and his empire was divided between his two sons, with one son, Thuwani bin Said, becoming Sultan of Oman, and the other son, Majid bin Said, becoming Sultan of Zanzibar. Zanzibar's Sultan consolidated his power around the African slave and ivory trade.  Zanzibar City became the main trading port for slaves and ivory, which were obtained from the African mainland as far west as the Congo Basin and shipped to the Middle East. An estimated 50 000 slaves and untold tons of elephant tusks passed through Zanzibar during the mid-19th century.

Until the late 1880s, the Sultan of Zanzibar controlled much of Africa's Swahili Coast, which included Mombasa and Dar es Salaam; however, Germany and Britain were plotting to colonize this region of the continent. During the late 1880s, Germany and Britain divided up control and ownership of most of East Africa and in 1890, Zanzibar became a British protectorate, but not a colony. This distinction meant that Zanzibar continued to be under the sovereignty of the Sultan of Zanzibar.

Zanzibar gained independence from Britain in December 1963, leaving it under full control of the sultan. One month later, in January 1964, Jamshid bin Abdullah, the reigning sultan, was overthrown in a revolution and fled into exile. Over 20 000 people were killed and refugees, mainly Indians and Arabs, were forced to leave the islands.

In April 1964, Zanzibar was merged with Tanganyika (mainland Tanzania), which had gained its independence from Britain in 1961, into the newly created United Republic of Tanganyika and Zanzibar. The new state changed its name to the United Republic of Tanzania within a year.

Today, the people living on the islands are a mixture of the original Bantu-speaking "Swahili" Africans and descendants of the various Eastern cultures and slaves that have passed through the islands during modern history. These descendants of Arabs, slaves, and Africans call themselves "Shirazi".

The indigenous islanders are commonly described as three main groups: the Bantu-speaking Hadimu, who live mainly in southern and central Unguja, another Bantu-speaking people known as the Tumbatu, who inhabit northern Unguja and Tumbatu Island, and the Pemba of Pemba Island. 

Swahili is the principal language spoken on the islands, with a local dialect called Kiunguja. Arabic is also important, owing to the long-established Muslim influence. English is also widely spoken. Tradtional African beliefs are combined with the Islamic faith throughout the islands.

Zanzibar Archipelago

Zanzibar consists of two main islands and about 50 much smaller islands lying 25-50 miles (40-80 kms) offshore from the northern coast of Tanzania, which is known as the Swahili Coast.

Most of Zanzibar's population, which numbers around 1.1 million, live on its two largest islands, Unguja (also known as Zanzibar Island) and Pemba. Roughly two-thirds live on Unguja, while most of the rest live on Pemba. Small numbers live on Tumbatu, Fundo and some of the other small islands in the archipelago.

Zanzibar is a semi-autonomous region belonging to the Republic of Tanzania, with its own government.

Unguja Island

Zanzibar's main island is Unguja, also sometimes called Zanzibar Island. The island covers an area of 643 square miles (1 666 sq kms), measuring 53 miles (83 kms) north-to-south and 19 miles (30 kms) east-to-west at its widest.

Zanzibar's capital is Zanzibar City, located on the west coast of Unguja and the only significant urban center on the islands. Zanzibar's top tourist draw is Stone Town, the old Arabian-style quarter of Zanzibar City.

Stone Town

Stone Town is the oldest section of Zanzibar City, located on a small peninsula and dating back 150 years. It is known locally as "Mji Mkongwe", meaning Old Town and is very similar in appearance to North African 'medinas', with Arabian-style architecture, mosques, narrow winding streets, shops and busy bazaars selling various goods. A guided walking tour of Stone Town to discover its slave-trading history is highly recommended, but wandering the streets and visiting the markets on your own is also a pleasure.

Stone Town became a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 2000; however, many of the town's historic buildings are in deteriorating condition due to the humid ocean climate and the fragile nature of coral stone, which is used in much of the older landmark buildings. Major restoration projects are constantly underway.

Some of Stone Town's must-see landmarks include the following...

The Old Dispensary, a spectacular four-level building built in 1887 to celebrate Queen Victoria's Golden Jubilee. It is one of Stone Town's most elaborate structures and located along the seafront. It fell into ruin after the 1964 revolution, but was beautifully restored in 1994 and today is mostly occupied by offices. It is one of Zanzibar's top tourist attractions.

The Palace Museum, located just south of the Dispensary, was built in the late 1800s and served as the residence of the last Omani sultan, who was exiled in 1964. The museum is open daily and houses historical furniture, writings, clothes, and daily life items showing the lifestyle of the Omani elite during the 19th century.

The House of Wonders (Beit al-Ajaib), is perhaps Unguja's most impressive landmark structure. Located along the seafront and constructed in 1883, it is one of six palaces built by Barghash bin Said, the second sultan of Zanzibar. It was at that time, the tallest building in East Africa and also the first to have electric lighting, running water, and even an elevator.

Also located along the seafront is The Old Fort (Ngome Kongwe), Zanzibar's oldest standing structure, dating back to the ousting of the Portuguese by the Omani in 1698. The fort was quickly constructed and completed by 1701. It was later used as a prison and army barracks and today houses craft shops, an open-air amphitheater that hosts regular events, and a restaurant.

Forodhani Gardens, also called the Jubilee Gardens, are located along the main seawalk. The name (meaning "a ship's cargo") refers to the slave trade that was so prevalent here in the 19th century. The gardens host a popular open-air street food market, which opens daily after sunset, serving Zanzibari cuisine like grilled seafood, samoosas, sweet potatoes, and cassava.

Kelele Square, the name meaning "tumultuous", was Zanzibar's open-air slave market in the 19th century. Located at the westernmost tip of Stone Town, the square is surrounded by some hotels and cafes.

Tippu Tip's House, with its elaborate door, is another must-see landmark of Stone Town. Tippu was an Arab-Zanzabari slave and ivory trader who worked with a succession of the sultans of Zanzibar. His caravans into Central Africa are legendary and he became the leading slave trader on the continent.

There are many more sights to see and a guided walking tour of Stone Town is well worth the time.

Southern Unguja

Unguja's south is characterized by its beautiful beaches, great snorkeling and diving. It is much less crowded than the far north, with far fewer accommodations and tourists.

Jozani-Chwaka Bay National Park
Jozani-Chwaka Bay is Zanzibar's only national park and its premier terrestrial conservation area. The park covers 19 square miles (50 sq kms) and is home to spectacular forest and the endangered Kirk's red colobus monkey, which is almost a guarantee to be seen. Other large mammals living in the forest includes the blue (or Sykes') monkey, Ader's duiker, suni antelope, and bush pig. Smaller animals include the elephant shrew, bush baby, various chameleons, over 40 species of bird, and over 50 species of butterfly.

The park offers several enjoyable nature trails that range in duration from one hour to a half-day hike that are an excellent way to explore the forest at any pace you desire. The park also extends beyond the forest and into Chwaka Bay, with its sea-grass beds and intertidal zones, fringed with mangrove forest.

South of the park entrance gate is the Pete-Jozani Mangrove Boardwalk, a short, highly recommended stroll. The park entrance fee includes the services of a guide (optional). The nearby Zanzibar Butterfly Centre offers visitors a look at some of the butterfly species native to Jozani.

Menai Bay Conservation Area 
The entirety of southern Unguja's coastline is protected as part of the Menai Bay Conservation Area (MBCA). Covering 180 square miles (470 sq kms) of coastal waters, the MBCA is Zanzibar's largest marine protected area. The MBCA protects a variety of habitats including coral reefs, sea grasses, mangrove forests, beaches, and sandbanks, plus plentiful marine life, including bottlenose dolphins and Indo-Pacific humpback dolphins.

The MBCA was created in 1997 as a World Wildlife Fund initiative and it has been deemed a huge success. The villages at Kizimkazi, which previously harvested large numbers of marine animals, including dolphins, now benefit from tourism, especially boat-based dolphin tours.

Kizimkazi 
Near the southernmost part of Unguja are the twin-towns of Kizimkazi, known for dolphin tours in Menai Bay and for being the longest continually inhabited settlement in Zanzibar, where the Wawinyi Wakuu, the last of Zanzibar's pre-Omani rulers, lived over 1 000 years ago. Kizimkazi is also the site of Eastern Africa's oldest mosque, which dates back to 1107 AD. The mosque is open to tourists.

Fumba
The Fumba Peninsula extends into the northern portion of Menai Bay and offers beautiful and deserted coastline with sandy coves accessed by stairs down to the beach. Snorkeling here is superb.

Jambiani
The southeastern coast of Unguja is best known for Jambiani, a 4-mile-long (7-km) beach and village that offers superb snorkeling in shallow water, with sandbanks and coral reefs. This stretch of coast is quite tidal, so swimming is only available at high tide. The beach is backed by plenty of restaurants, lodging and village life. Once the most crowded beach on Unguja, these days the crowds flock to Nungwi in the far north, so Jambiani and Page are much more peaceful. 

Just north of Jambiani beach is Page beach, another long white-sand beach, beginning south of the village of Paje and stretching uninterrupted for 8 miles (13 kms), all the way through and past the villages of Bwejuu and Dongwe where the Michamvi Peninsula begins. Ras Michamvi, at the northern tip of the peninsula, is a high headland with stunning views, small sandy coves down at the ocean, and various boutique accommodations.

Northern Unguja

The northern region is Unguja's most popular beach resort destination. Snorkeling, diving, beaches and water sports are the main attraction, but the bustling towns of Nungwi and Kendwa on the far northern cape also offer a nightlife scene.

Nungwi and Kendwa
The northern tip of Unguja, around the traditional fishing and dhow-building village of Nungwi, has become Zanzibar's most popular tourist retreat, owing to the myriad water sports available including superb snorkeling and diving. Once an enclave for hippies, Ras Nungwi has emerged as the place to be on Unguja, with a multitude of accommodations, seafood restaurants, and a lively nightlife scene.

The two main stretches of beach are located on the western side of the cape and this is where the hotels, restaurants, and bars are located. The coast between the villages of Nungwi and Kendwa is the hub of tourist activity and snorkeling, diving, windsurfing, dhow cruises, and other water-sports can be arranged from any accommodation. Diving can be booked at one of the PADI-accredited dive centers.  

The eastern shoreline of Nungwi is mostly deserted and very peaceful, with no facilities besides a few upscale lodges, making it a romantic destination free from the hectic crowds across the peninsula.

Despite the bustling tourist industry, Nungwi itself is still a fishing village and traditional dhow-building is still a local specialty. The daily fish market is worth visiting when the fishing boats return and the romantic view of the traditional outrigger boats helps retain the old-world feel. The Ras Nungwi lighthouse was built in 1886 and the Mnarani Aquarium is also worth a visit. Cultural Village Tours are a good way to see everything with a knowledgeable guide.

Mnemba Island
Located just 1.5 miles (2.5 kms) off the northeast coast of Unguja is the tiny island of Mnemba, which is part of the mostly submerged Mnemba Atoll. The entire island is now a private and exclusive resort retreat. Pristine beaches, a small forest, and superb snorkeling and diving are on offer.

Matemwe
Matemwe is one of the most pleasant beaches on the eastern shoreline, with palm trees, wide white sands, and intimate village life. The snorkeling and diving on the reef is superb.

Kiwengwa 
Zanzibar's packaged-vacation destination is the stretch of coastline between Kiwengwa and Pwani Mchangani. This lovely stretch of beach is dominated by all-inclusive resorts catering mostly to Europeans. There are however some very good, smaller hotels worth considering.

Kiwengwa-Pongwe Forest Reserve
Kiwengwa-Pongwe is a 13-square-mile (33-sq-km) conservation area that protects one of Unguja's most biodiverse habitat, including coral rag forest, which grows atop the rubbly limestone of an ancient coral reef. Wildlife in the reserve includes the endangered Zanzibar red colobus, blue and Sykes' monkeys, bushbaby, and Ader's duiker antelope. There are around 50 series of bird living in the forest.

Several nature trails are available for visitors to explore, as well as the limestone Mchekeni Caves, which are coral caverns in what used to be offshore coral reefs. The Reserve was created in 2009 to provide conservation education and revenue to the local villagers and encourage them not to take wood from the forest. A beekeeping initiative is also underway to support the nearby villages. By visiting the forest, you will help preserve it.

Zanzibar City and Surrounds

Zanzibar City (also called Zanzibar Town) is the capital and largest city on the islands. The city is comprised of two sections, Stone Town, which is the oldest section, and Ng'ambo (meaning "The Other Side"). The two parts are separated by a long-drained creek, which is now Creek Road. Abeid Amani Karume International Airport, located 3 miles (5 kms) south of the city, is the main gateway to the islands.

Spice Tours
One of the most obligatory activities in Zanzibar is a Spice Tour. The tours generally take a walking exploration of a nearby spice farm, finishing with a local meal.

Changuu Island
Also known as Prison Island, Changuu a small narrow island located 3 miles (5 kms) offshore from Stone Town. The island was once used as a staging grounds for slaves en route from the mainland. A large colony of fenced-in Aldabra giant tortoises lives on the island. Half-day and full-day tours include snorkeling at nearby Bawe Island.

Chumbe Island
Located just offshore and south of Zanzibar City, Chumbe Island offers spectacular snorkeling, with more than two hundred species of stone coral and hundreds of species of fish. The island is covered in coral rag forest and can be explored on hiking trails. Both the island and the waters and reefs offshore are protected as the Chumbe Island Marine Sanctuary & Forest Reserve.

Chapwani Island
Also known as Grave Island, Chapwani is a long and narrow strip just offshore from Stone Town and is a popular day-trip destination for its Christian cemetery, which was founded in 1879. The graves are mostly those of British sailors, some killed fighting the Arabs and others who died when the Pegasus, a British ship, sank here during World War I. The indigenous forest can be explored and there is a good swimming beach.

Maruhubi and Mtoni Ruins
The coastline north of the city were a preferred residential location for the various sultans of Zanzibar. The ruins of burned-down palaces still exist and are interesting to explore.

Located only a mile (3 kms) north of Stone Town, Mahurubi Palace was built by Sultan Barghash in 1882 as a residence for his wife and ninety-nine concubines. Mahurubi burned in 1899.

Another kilometer north are the Mtoni Palace ruins. Built between 1828-1832 by Sultan Sayyid Saïd, the palace burned in 1914. Mtoni housed the sultan's wives, children, and hundreds of concubines. Mtoni is most famous for being home to Princess Salme, one of the sultan's daughters, who eloped with a German merchant in 1866, causing a huge scandal.

Mangapwani
Located 15 miles (25 km) north of Stone Town is the coastal fishing village of Mangapwani. It is notorious for being the location for the black-market slave trade after slavery with the African mainland was outlawed by the British in 1873. Man-made chambers dug into the shore were used to the hide the illegal slaves from anti-slavery patrols. The caves are small and claustrophobic cells and can be viewed on a tour or on one's own.

Unguja beaches

The beaches along Unguja's eastern coast are often covered in pungent seaweed between November and February, but the more upscale hotels clear their beaches. Another consideration is that almost all of the east coast beaches are highly tidal and have barrier reefs extending out several kilometers, so swimming is possible only at high tide.

Pemba Island

Located 25 miles (40 kms) northeast of Unguja lies Zanzibar's oft overlooked 'other' big island, Pemba. Often called the "Green Island", owing to its lush and densely vegetated landscape, the island covers an area of 381 square miles (988 sq kms), measuring 42 miles (67 kms) north-to-south and 14 miles (22 kms) east-to-west at its widest.

Pemba is a low-lying, but hilly island, with a maximum elevation of 330 feet (100 meters). Cloves are the main agricultural product and the island has a permeating and fragrant spice aroma. Traditional medicine and witchcraft are still practiced on the island.

Pemba is infrequently visited, as it is not touted as a tourism destination by the Zanzibari government. Pemba's infrastructure is far less developed than Unguja, but is far quieter and retains a true old world feel. The three main towns on Pemba are Chake Chake (the capital), Mkoani in the southwest, and Wete in the northeast.

The island and its offshore reefs are best known for having numerous world-class dive locations. Pemba also offers lovely beaches and several ruin sites. There are also a handful of excellent accommodations for those who seek a comfortable, but more remote destination than Unguja.

Central Pemba

Chake
Chake Chake ("Chake" is commonly used) is Pemba's capital and largest city. Although centuries old, the town is rather unremarkable but untouristy and a pleasant place to visit. There is a daily market for spices, herbs, honey, oils and more. The ruins of Nanzim Fort, an 18th century structure built by the Omanis atop the original Portugueses Fort from 1594, is now a very nice museum.

Misali Island
Lying 10 miles (17 kms) offshore from Chake is Misali Island, one of Pemba's highlights. Misali offers beautiful beaches, excellent snorkeling and diving, and a lovely forest interior, with several hiking trails. The island is uninhabited and part of the Misali Island Marine Conservation Area, which protects the island and the diverse coral reefs surrounding it. Legend has it that the notorious pirate, Captain Kidd, used the island as a hideout and buried treasure here.

Pujini Ruins
About 6 miles (10 kms) southeast of Chake are the ruins of a 15th century settlement inhabited by the Diba people, who ruled over Pemba from the 15th-17th century. The remains include a citadel built by Mkama Ndume, a merchant/pirate and the ruins are often referred to by his name.

Southern Pemba 

The south of Pemba is sparsely populated, with a few good beaches and the island's third-largest town, Mkoani. Mkoani is Pemba's main seaport and the ferries from Stone Town and Dar es Salaam arrive here. There is not much else to the town other than a small market.

A walk to the sandy spit at Ras Mkoasha provides beautiful vistas. Boat tours leave from Mkoani to various nearby islands, including Makoongwe, Misali, and Panza for swimming, snorkeling, mangroves, birding, and more.

Northern Pemba

The northern part of Pemba is lush and flat, with forests, small settlements, and cultivation of rice and cloves. The port town of Wete is Pemba's second-largest settlement, and is known for its traditional dhows.

Ngezi Forest
Further north is the Ngezi-Vumawimbi Nature Reserve, which is a remnant of the indigenous forest that once covered over half of Pemba, before clove farming was introduced. The forest is rich, with tall teak trees.

Wildlife that can be seen includes some endemic subspecies, including the Pemba vervet monkey, Pemba flying fox, and Pemba blue duiker. Kirk's red colobus were introduced from Unguja and the Javan civet from Southeast Asa. There are four endemic birds found in the forest: the Pemba white-eye, Pemba green-pigeon, Pemba scops-owl, and Pemba sunbird. The forest is considered a sacred place to locals.

Ras Kigomasha
Pemba's northernmost point, Ras Kigomasha, offers two spectacular and nearly-deserted beaches on either side of the peninsula: Panga ya Wotoro on the west and Vumawimbi on the east. Two excellent lodges are located on Ras Kigomasha.

There are several ruins dating to medieval times in the far north, the best being the Hamisi ruins (also called "Haruni" or Chwaka" ruins). Hamisi dates to the 16th century and is an interesting site to explore.

Diving and Snorkeling

Unguja and Pemba are both excellent for diving and snorkeling, with reefs and smaller offshore islands offering beginner and advanced sites. Pemba in particular is known as one of the world's best places for well-preserved dive sites. Divers will enjoy the massive coral gardens, drop-off reef shelves, and incredible marine life.

Diving in Zanzibar is only permitted through one of the many dive centers located on Unguja and Pemba. Snorkeling is available through any accommodation on the islands.

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Beaches, Chake, Changuu, Chapwani, Chumbe, Diving, Fumba, History, Jambiani, Jozani-Chwaka Bay, Kendwa, Kiwengwa, Kiwengwa-Pongwe, Kizimkazi, Mahurubi, Mangapwani, Matemwe, Menai Bay, Misali, Mnemba, Mtoni, Ngezi-Vumawimbi, Nungwi, Pemba, Pujini, Ras Kigomasha, Snorkeling, Stone Town, Unguja, Zanzibar Archipelago, Zanzibar City